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bodies, the roofs, the front of the engine every inch is covered with people. Crowds in India are frightening they lose control so easily, everything in their path swept into chaos. Like swarming insects on some coveted particle of food matter they hang, disjointed on the sides of the cars, on each other, limbs desperately grasping to anything for support, for equilibrium. Legs hang loose, fingers clutch on any protruding edge. A desperate human juggling act.

Indians' darker skin coloring tends to blend imperfections. An Indian man can go without shaving for a week but he does not look shabby. The black stubble is not unpleasant against his tanned skin, there is not the sharp contrast that occurs with light complexions. Indian men who are growing bald similarly do not stand out as much, do not present that unattractive naked pale baked top.

Aug 31, 70

Most Indian men are dudes at heart. They like to "look smart" especially in western clothes. As most cannot afford much variety in apparel, they take great care of the few clothes they own. (Since all clothes are made by a tailor, the western cut clothes never quite approach the slick mass produced products of America which is much admired, but retains a slight hand-made look, embroidered by the tailors' personal quirks).

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In public men are very careful about where they sit. The sitting place is inspected closely, dust is blown away and a large handkerchief is pulled out and lain neatly down as an alter cloth. The sitter sits.

The handkerchief is not used for nose-blowing. This act is accomplished by putting a finger over one nostril, turning the head aside and blowing your snot into the street. No easy trick to escape spattering your own shirt front or some passers by. To blow your nose on the handkerchief would soil it, then it could not be used to sit on or to be carried decoratively about. Men will often be seen holding the corner of a handkerchief blowing open by their side, using it to underline a gesture or just waver in the air as they walk. It is carried about like some woman singers in archaic nightclub acts, a piece of stage business. But what would be termed an effeminate gesture by a man in the west does not seem incongruous or wrong when done by Indians. Their smaller, more delicate bone structure seems more sympathetic to such movements. Perhaps it is only within the context of it happening in India that makes it not out of place.

Sept 1, 70

Today the Hindustani women in Benares celebrate (tease?) [the Bengalis do not]. This consists of fasting till midnight and worshipping a small clay statue of Siva and Parvati. The following morning this is taken to the Ganga and thrown into the river along with some fruit and vegetables. It is to commemorate the perfect lover of Parvati for Siva and is supposed to protect your husband or if you are single to secure you a good one. I saw some of the clay figures in the Dassamath baazaar today. They are made of unpainted